Situated about a mile northeast of Edinburgh Castle, Fhior presents a modest facade which opens to a very contemporary and relaxing interior. Like many of its culinary peers, Fhior is known for hyper-seasonal menu, but with a “less is more” approach that truly highlights the main ingredient of each dish. We opted for the full 10-course menu which took around two and a half hours to complete.
An unexpected start to the meal that was added to the menu just prior to our arrival. The cauliflower foam was light and creamy, which contrasted well with the crispy puffed rice on top. The submerged sweetbreads were perfectly tender and a surprising burst of flavor hiding below the airy cauliflower.
The spinach croustade was a wonderful burst of sweet, sour, and salt all in one bite, elevated further by the different textures presented by the crispy pastry and soft pear. One of my all time favorite amuse-bouche to start a meal.
If I hadn’t been told the deer was prepared as a tartare, I would have assumed it was a cooked dish intentionally served cold. The meat was so incredibly tender and well-seasoned I initially thought it had been braised. This dish changed my mind about the possibilities of tartare.
The sourdough bread we were served was made from (fairly) local Bere barley, grown in Orkney. For such a dark and rustic bread it had a deceptively light and fluffy texture with a perfectly crisp crust. The cultured butter with just a hint of sourness and a hit of umami really completed the pairing.
After our experience with beetroot at Aizle earlier in the week, I was incredibly apprehensive when this dish was served. We were told the beet was cooked at a low temperature for some time, and that when paired with the egg emulsion the combination would taste similar to smoked ham. To our surprise, the pair had not only the flavor of ham, but also the texture! Somehow the egg combined with the cooked beet to create a sensation not unlike sliced ham for sandwiches. The earthiness was completely gone and I quickly finished the entire dish.
A creamy mouse of crab contained in a ring of pickled carrot. Puffed buckwheat on top for a satisfying crunch.
The scallop was cooked beautifully, with the ends nicely crisp. The simplicity of the dish highlighted the freshness and flavor of the hand-picked scallop.
Presented alongside the previous scallop dish, a wonderful snack and one of my favorite offerings of the night. The scallop roe was unbelievably creamy and packed with umami, all contained in a neat package of crispy and fluffy fried bread.
Another seafood dish that is elevated by its minimal ingredients and presentation. The seared cod was able to stay in the foreground of the dish while the crispy kale and alexander served as a delightful accompaniment to the flaky fish.
The squid noodles were so tender it was almost impossible to tell them apart from the handmade wheat noodles. I was impressed by the lack of unending chewiness that is usually found in squid dishes.
Both lamb loin and shoulder were served for this course, along with a strip of celeriac and lamb jus. We ate lamb several times during our trip which was all very high quality and delicious, but Shh’annu really takes it to another level. It would not be farfetched to call it the lamb equivalent of wagyu. We were told this is Fhior’s signature dish, and it’s no surprise as to why. My favorite dish of the night, without a doubt.
Paired with the main lamb dish is a small bowl of traditional Scottish skirlie. An incredibly savory dish, skirlie is typically made with pan-fried oatmeal, onions, and other seasonings. Ours was topped with crispy lamb and mint. My only complaint is that we weren’t able to bring home a gallon of it.
Near the end of the meal, we were served miniature cheese and onion pies filled with a delicious soft Scottish cheese.
Candied artichoke sits upon a combination of buckthorn gel and white chocolate mousse. A very interesting pairing that when eaten together created a tangy sweetness with an unexpected chewiness from the artichokes.
Sweet and sour damson hides underneath a crisp of bay leaf and malt. An exciting combination of flavors that provided a welcome brightness to the meal after several heavier dishes.
Our final surprise was brought out after the check as a parting gift. The marshmallow was sweet and aromatic from the infused pine flavor, balanced by the mild earthiness of the wild mushroom macarons. Both are projects I am eager to recreate at home.
Conclusion
Fhior was an experience that I will treasure for years to come. There was a confidence to their dishes that I have rarely seen elsewhere. I particularly enjoyed how Fhior utilizes subdued presentation to their advantage. Several dishes often have the main ingredient hidden from view, which adds an element of discovery and intimacy to each plate. Guests are invited to explore and relish in the exceptional ingredients at hand. Additionally, the service was excellent and our server was more than eager to answer any questions we had.
I think Fhior’s greatest strength is that they truly do not seem bothered by what is happening elsewhere in the culinary. That’s not to say they don’t have ambition–they clearly do–but rather that they are wholly focused on creating food they enjoy and take pride in serving it to others. I look forward to seeing their future developments and hope to visit again the next time we are in Scotland.
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